seymour.

Back in 2014, we did a lot of traveling to small towns around Victoria. Mostly for work - Ben's job took him all around the state for a few weeks at a time, and I was able to follow him around, exploring and documenting. We stayed in places like Shepparton, Donald, Portland, Penshurst, Metung, Lakes Entrance, Bairnsdale, and Geelong, and on the weekends we were able to visit amazing areas like Cape Bridgewater, Mount Gambier, the Buchan Caves, Raymond Island, and Grampians National Park. Some of these locations were more picturesque than others, but all in all - I love exploring small Australian towns.

This month, Ben was scheduled to spend a week in Seymour - about a 1.5 hour drive from Melbourne. It was actually his suggestion that we come along. Arden has a lot of trouble settling to sleep without her Dada (a welcome change from the first year of her life, when it was mostly Mama doing the night-settling!), and he didn't want to leave her for a full week. "Plus, I'd miss you guys too much," he insisted. I swear I'm not making this up.

visiting Dada at work

Our hotel! Just kidding. It's an old jail, preserved for historical purposes.

I really enjoyed our time in Seymour. It's located on the banks of the Goulburn river, a beautiful spot. Along the river is an easy trail that spans 4.5 km, which was perfect for my morning runs with Arden in her stroller.

Trail jogging.

Arden is 100% walking now, so it's really fun to take her to children's parks - which Seymour had plenty of. There were a few small ones scattered throughout town, a fun park by the old black vintage train near the Seymour train station, and a really cool one at the Goulburn River Tourist Park that had lots of fun play equipment including a baby climbing wall. Of course, Arden had no interest in most of it. Her current favourite park activity is grabbing a bunch of woodchips and throwing them up in the air. But it makes her very happy!

Sprinkled around Seymour are tanks and a helicopter on display, mostly as part of a Vietnam war memorial, and also due to its location near a large Australian army base. The Vietnam Veterans Commemorative Walk is a curved wall of names and photographs, and is reportedly the only one of its kind in Australia dedicated to Vietnam veterans. I really appreciate and enjoy visiting all of the war memorials found in Australia's towns, and this one was especially creative and powerful.

the Vietnam Veterans Commemorative Walk

Seymour has a few quaint art galleries, which I enjoyed walking through during one of Arden's naps. The gallery at the old post office features works from Australian artists, most of them for sale. Across the street is the Seymour Art Society, a gallery located in an old courthouse.

Pioneer Park is an old cemetery, featuring large headstones from long, long ago. It's located in a quiet and peaceful area, with a dirt path meandering around clusters of graves and memorial stones.

this headstone caught my attention - a three-year old boy, memorialised by his grieving parents in the 1800's.

a memorial dedicated to the pioneers of Seymour

I also happened to pass by Victoria's Tidiest Street in 1997 and 1998. This alone made the trip to Seymour worth it.

Agriculture is big in Seymour, and we saw a few farm animals in peoples' yards - mostly sheep, and one adorable little horse. I pointed them out to Arden, who is beginning to enjoy animals that aren't puppies or seagulls. We also saw many cockatoos, and heard even more of them - particularly at 6am on the dot every morning as they gathered above our hotel room. It would have been a terrible wake-up call (cockatoos are very loud), except Arden was very much awake (yet sleep-deprived) by 6am, so it made no difference to us.

Around the main city area are various metal sculptures to accompany a few landmarks (a judge by the courthouse, a policeman by the police station, etc.). My favourite was this koala and cockatoo by the Goulburn River walk.

One of my Australian friends highly recommended Gaffney's Pie Kitchen to me, and I wasn't disappointed. (These aren't dessert pies though - meat pies are an iconic Australian cuisine.) During our visit I had two vegetarian pies here and they were pretty amazing. Ben enjoyed a few of the meat pies as well. And Arden's review after a few bites of mine? "YUMMYYY. YUMMYYY."

One week was enough time to get a good taste of Seymour and experience many of the town's highlights. It's a fun area - I especially loved the gorgeous walking trails, and the art (both gallery works and public sculptures). I'm glad Ben asked me to come along on the trip, as I've missed my little small-town Australian adventures. Exploring (and traveling in general) is a bit different with a toddler in tow, but it's still manageable. Arden has always loved being out and about in her baby carrier, so she enjoyed the change of scenery as well as seeing the various animals, parks and beautiful views.

Thanks for a great time, Seymour! Perhaps we'll be back soon to see more... ;)

CK

Perth!

Perth skyline

When the company I was working for in Seattle merged with a company based in Australia in 2010, I immediately dreamed about the opportunity to travel to Australia for work. I had always wanted to visit, but the thought of going for a longer trip (and having my company pay for it) was a very appealing proposition. Just over 5 years ago work offered to send me to Australia for a month and I finally got my chance to travel to the number one destination all visitors to Australia long to go… Perth (considered by some to be the most isolated capital city in the world)! Seriously though, my time in Perth was filled with so many great memories and being my first introduction to Australia, it was a place I longed to visit again and experience with Candice so she could understand why I decided to move us out here in the first place.

my first trip to Perth in 2011!

After three years in Melbourne and travelling to a few other places like Adelaide and Sydney, we finally decided to use the time I have off over the holidays to visit Perth. I planned a lot of our trip beforehand to ensure we would see all the places I loved visiting during my first trip, but since we had a whole week there it allowed us time to explore some new places as well. One of the places I missed during my first trip (though I have no idea how) was Kings Park, which is a massive area of parkland, native bushland and botanic gardens. Situated on Mount Eliza with stunning views of the Swan River and CBD, we spent most of the day exploring and taking in the views from the war memorial and the awesome glass elevated walkway. Kings Park is by far the best botanic garden we have visited in Australia, and a must-see for any visitors to Perth.

glass bridge (official name: Lotterywest Federation Walkway) in Kings Park

Another new area we visited was South Perth and the Perth Zoo, to take advantage of our free entry for being Melbourne Zoo members. It also allowed us to take in the sights of the city from the river, as we had to take a ferry to get to the zoo. The zoo itself is really nice, and has a cool layout which makes it feel more natural and less like a zoo. The animals were very active while we were there, which always helps too. The last new area we visited was East Perth, specifically Claisebrook Cove, which is a little area of fancy houses/apartments and hip/trendy restaurants and bars.

The area I spent most of my time during my last trip to Perth was the town of Fremantle, located about a 30-minute train ride south of the city. It has a really cool artsy/hipster vibe with a lot of old historic buildings and the Fremantle Markets, which are a tiny version of the Queen Victoria Markets we have in Melbourne. It’s also right on the water, so has great views of the ocean and surrounding islands. It wasn’t quite as lively as I remember, or perhaps my memory is tainted after living in Melbourne, but we still had a great time visiting the markets, getting lunch with my co-worker at Little Creatures Brewery and walking by the water.

on the train to Fremantle!

iconic Dingo Flour sign

Elizabeth Quay, located on the Swan River and south edge of the CBD, has changed a lot in 5 years. There is an entirely new man-made cove with restaurants and a cool footbridge, and it made the area a lot more appealing to visit. The Bell Tower is now partially obscured by new high rise apartments being built in the area, which is a real shame, as it’s such an iconic symbol of the Perth skyline I remember.

the bell tower in 2011...

...and the bell tower in 2017!

I also took Candice and Arden to Cottesloe Beach, which has a nice boardwalk along the ocean and lots of beautiful sandy beaches. One thing about Melbourne, the beaches near the city aren’t great. Sure they’re better than the Washington State beaches, but that isn’t saying much. Western Australia is known for its beaches and while Cottesloe is touristy and not as nice as the beaches farther out from the city, it is still an excellent beach with white sand and warm water. We didn’t swim since we aren’t huge fans of sharks, but it was great to walk around and soak up some sunshine.

The highlight of the trip, and my return to Perth, was a trip out to Rottnest Island. Rotto (as the locals call it) is a 30-minute boat ride from Freemantle across one of the roughest seas in the world, and we got to experience the joys of that during our crossing. Thankfully I managed not to throw up. Similar to Mackinac Island in Michigan, Rottnest is an island where cars are mostly prohibited and everyone rides bikes around. For being relatively small, the island has a lot of variation in scenery, from tropical white sand beaches to rugged cliffs to dry salt plains. My last trip to Rottnest was all about riding to the far end of the island to see as much as I could see, but this time our schedule was a lot different since we had a baby to think about. That said, we still managed to put in a few kms on our bikes and I was able to show Candice a lot of the scenery the island has to offer. It was a bit freaky riding a bike with Arden on my back in her ergocarrier, and not at all comfortable, but it was worth it to experience the beauty of the island.

Rottnest is also one of the only places in Australia to see quokkas in the wild. Quokkas are adorable marsupials about the size of a house cat, and they are found all over Rottnest. Since Rottnest is such a tourist destination, and tourists love feeding wildlife, the quokkas are very friendly and will hop right up to you if you sit still. Sadly with the passing of the years and the popularity of the selfie stick, the quokka selfie has become a thing, which is just gross, but we managed to refrain from getting one. Arden loved seeing the quokkas, especially when they were hopping around, and I was really surprised when Candice didn’t sneak one home in our luggage.

not quite the quintessential quokka selfie... ;)

Looking back to my first trip to Perth five years ago, I recall how much of my previous trip was defined by long work days, going out after work with co-workers, and a lot of exploring on my own. I had some really gracious co-workers who invited me out with them on weekends so I was able to see so much and feel like I was part of a community for my short visit. When left on my own, I was constantly discovering new things and enjoying the excitement in that, but it was also pretty lonely at times. It was during this trip and those lonely times that Candice and I started discussing a possible move to Australia and spending our lives together, so we both feel a special connection with Perth as my time there brought us to where we are now.

I’m so thankful I was able to show Candice and Arden my first experience of Australia and all the things that make Perth a great place. From the beautiful beaches and constant sunshine to the friendly locals, Perth left a great impression on me and this was only strengthened through my time visiting again. Hopefully we’ll be able to visit again in another five years.

-BK
Perth - January 2017 from Candice Kortlever on Vimeo.

Sydney!

As Candice said in one of her posts: “Sydney. It’s pretty.” I can’t think of a better way to sum up our visit. Melbourne is beautiful, feels like home and we love it (and still think it’s the best city in Australia), but Sydney on the harbour is gorgeous. From the vibrant green water, the passenger ferries zipping around the harbour and the iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House, Sydney is a sight to behold.

Our hotel was a great location in Circular Quay with a view of the bridge and a short walk to the Opera House. We had dinners and brunch on the water overlooking either the bridge or Opera House, and thanks to the kindness of Candice’s mom were able to enjoy some quality date time while Arden napped and played with her Ahma.

We took advantage of our Melbourne Zoo membership to visit the Taronga Zoo, as we get free entry with our membership. To get to the zoo we hopped on one of the passenger ferries, which allowed us to take in the sights of the city and harbour from the water. The zoo itself is situated on a hill with stunning views of the city skyline. We took every advantage of the experience, watching the open air bird show and eating lunch at The View restaurant (where we were admiring a Kookaburra that kept flying onto the restaurant balcony, until it swooped Candice’s mom and stole some fries from our table). It was excellent and we highly recommend a visit, even if just for the views.

Other highlights from our trip included visiting the botanic gardens, walking across the Harbour Bridge, exploring a Sunday market in The Rocks neighbourhood and riding our first double decker train. Sadly, we passed on going up the Sydney Tower, a free standing tower similar to the Space Needle. Maybe next time.

Sydney is a beautiful city and we were so glad to be able to experience it with Candice’s mom. We had an excellent visit, great food and incredible scenery and look forward to our next opportunity to visit.

-BK

Sydney - December 2016 from Candice Kortlever on Vimeo.

my mother's third visit to Melbourne.

My mom easily wins our "most frequent visitor" award, after her third trip to Melbourne this past December! (Previous visits: July 2014, and a year ago when Arden was 2 months old.)

This pre-Christmas visit was a mixture of fun adventures (a weekend trip to Sydney, my Master's graduation, zoo visits, and even high tea - no easy feat with a one-year-old!) and some relaxing days at home, playing with Arden and enjoying some quality three-generation time.

Sydney selfie!

visiting koalas at the zoo.

high tea!

Ben and I were able to have some highly anticipated alone time: long walks, lunches, and even two movies ("Doctor Strange" and "Rogue One"). Last year I was so stressed out about trying to see "The Force Awakens" because Arden wasn't taking a bottle consistently, but this year the worry levels were much lower (Arden is still breastfeeding, but not nearly as frequently). Although we have amazing local friends who have watched Arden for us on multiple occasions, it's still a treat when my mom spends time with us - mostly because she really really wants us to leave Arden with her for some quality Ahma/granddaughter time. If I wasn't still breastfeeding Arden, I might have gone along with her suggestion of me going to Sydney with Ben while leaving her and Arden in Melbourne (!!) - but in hindsight I'm glad we all went together.

Mobility was the most significant difference from previous reunions. 13-month old Arden had just started walking at the beginning of the visit, taking two or three wobbly steps at a time. Two weeks later, she was able to walk from one end of the room to the other! Arden's newfound skill and overall independence meant that she didn't need or want to be held all the time, which was nice. However, toddler-Arden was much more attached to me and Ben, and not impartial like she was as a newborn. Ben and I perfected sneaking out before our date activities, and upon returning home, we were met by Arden frantically crawl/walking to the door, crying because she missed us so.

Sleep in general has been a huge issue for us. Aside from being carried for her naps, Arden takes hours to rock/feed to sleep in the evening and has difficulty settling back to bed after night feedings. But my mom helped a ton during her two-week visit, so we were able to catch up on our sleep and sanity. She carried Arden for almost all her naps, so I could do frivolous things like shower and drink (hot) coffee and jog and write. And there were a few mornings when Arden wouldn't settle back to sleep at 4am, and my mom insisted on rocking her until a more appropriate wake-up time of 8am. That's some intense grandma-dedication right there! (My mom actually wanted us to leave Arden's crib in the guest room so she could take care of her all night, but I drew the line there - it would have been wonderful, but the last thing I wanted was for Arden to develop yet another "sleep crutch" on someone who was only staying for a few weeks...)

I love that my mom is crazy about Arden. She cherishes every detail of my daughter's existence, from her rapidly-growing babble vocabulary (she likes to sing the "mah-na mah-na" song from Sesame Street!), intricate fine motor skills, baby-dance moves, the way Arden's face looks when she's sleeping on our chests. I like hearing about the similarities and differences between Arden and myself (and sometimes my brother) as a baby. My side of the family thinks Arden is a carbon copy of Ben (or, "Ben with a Chinese flavour" as they sometimes say). But there are certain characteristics that definitely come from me: our tiny baby feet, the total lack of putting objects into the mouth, and yes - apparently we share the same pooping face. Yay?

not quite my mini-me, but we're definitely related!

Even though my mom is a seasoned and savvy world traveler, the long journey from Michigan to Melbourne is no picnic. Planning these international trips (including our Hawaiian vacation last July) and making them happen takes a lot of work on her part, but because of this she's gotten to spend the most time with Arden out of our relatives. While we understand that most of our families aren't able to visit due to health issues and other travel priorities, we always appreciate the ones who have been able to make it to Melbourne (including Ben's sister and nephew, and most recently his cousin!).

I am beyond grateful; for all the successful events during the visit, for the effort my mom makes to see us and spend time with Arden, and for these precious multi-generational memories - so different yet so similar.

CK

Sydney - December 2016 from Candice Kortlever on Vimeo.

graduation reflections.

It's official - I'm a graduate from the University of Melbourne!

Master of Journalism. woo!

Getting to this point took a lot of hard work and was very overwhelming at times. But it was all totally worth it.

obligatory regalia selfie.

The graduation ceremony itself was probably the most organised event I've witnessed at this university. It took place at the Royal Exhibition Building, a beautiful location near the edge of Melbourne's CBD. And even though the wind was out of control (typical Melbourne!), the weather was sunny and made for some lovely photos.

the Royal Exhibition Hall

Graduation coincided with my mom's third visit to Melbourne, and it was so meaningful to have her there for the event. Our friends Ronelle and Gareth were able to watch Arden, which was a huge blessing and relief.

During the ceremony, I reflected on a few things during my grad school journey.

I thought about how intimidating it felt to even apply to the program, and how emotional I was when I received the e-mail of acceptance (on the drive back from Portland - very timely!).

I thought about the other students I had met through classes, or the program, or as friends of friends. The journalism program attracts people from many walks of life, and it was lovely to have conversations with such diverse and fascinating personalities. I'm honoured to even know many of my classmates, who no doubt will go on to do amazing things, journalistic and beyond. And so many of them had been friendly and incredibly helpful, especially when I was pregnant with Arden.

Cards Against Humanity nights. Typical.

I thought about how daunting everything felt at the beginning of each semester, especially as the challenges piled up (semester 1: don't fail. semester 2: don't vomit in class. semester 3: don't give birth in class. semester 4: don't fail, and don't let the baby vomit in class). And the huge effort it took to complete my final semester (like the time we flew my sister-in-law and nephew to Melbourne to watch Arden while I took an intensive class..!).

Arden was with me for 3/4 of my program! Two semesters in mooncake-form, one semester in baby-form.

I do have a few reservations about higher education, but I won't get into that. Instead, I will say that I found my time in both undergraduate and graduate school to be extremely valuable - not necessarily for the purpose of classroom-based education or getting a job, but for the experiences. For the people I met, the diverse ideas and thoughts I was exposed to, for the feeling of purpose and a substantial goal to work towards.

A huge thank-you to my family for the support (financial and emotional); to my classmates and professors for the encouragement, advice and friendship; to my friends in the States for cheering me on; to Ben for supporting me through the hardest of the hard moments; and of course to Arden, who was always very well-behaved - and cute - when I occasionally brought her to class with me.

CK
(Master of Journalism!)

p.s.
If you're curious, here are some previous blog entries about my graduate school experience:

-pre-course excitement and thoughts
-my first week ("disorientation week" as I called it!)
-my first semester
-my last semester