keeping up with the kortlevers: Manila 2017.

Back in 2014, Ben and I had the chance to visit Manila to see my grandmother, who had been in poor and declining health. Three years later, my Amah is still with us, and I had the opportunity to take Arden to meet her Thai-Ma (great-grandmother) as well as celebrate her 100th birthday (according to the traditional Chinese custom of counting).

Fun family fact: for my maternal grandparents, I'm grandchild #19, while Arden is great-grandchild #19. How cool is that?

I was pretty anxious about the 9.5-hour* plane ride with Arden, who is now 18 months old and loves to run around - but everything went smoothly, and there were no massive meltdowns (from either of us!). As we were exiting the plane in Manila, a passenger actually commented on how well Arden did during the flight. Of course, Arden immediately started screeching and making a fuss, but by then we were on our way to the baggage claim!

(*I think the flight was actually 8+ hours, as our departure was delayed by an hour. or something.)

here we go!

The five-day visit was mostly a blur of wonderful family reunions and delicious meals, alternating with long nauseating car rides. The traffic in Manila is horrendous, and the experience was magnified by a toddler who isn't used to cars or car seats. I'm also realising that because we always use public transportation in Melbourne, I'm no longer used to riding in cars - so I feel a lot more nauseous during car rides now. Awesome.

Arden did remarkably well for the drastic change in temperature, culture and environment - however, it was still a hard adjustment for her. Throughout the trip she refused to eat, or sit anywhere but in my arms 95% of the time. My mom and other relatives were more than happy to hold Arden and play with her, but she wanted none of it - unless I was out of sight.

the piano my mother practiced on as a child!

meeting my cousin's chihuahua, Katniss.

My relatives loved meeting Arden in person, and commented on how her white/Caucasian features made her an "American baby". Which, I mean, they're not entirely wrong...? ;) (another fun fact: I'm pretty sure Arden is the first not-entirely-Asian person on my side of the family - very exotic!) Arden got to meet some of her second cousins, and had a cute playdate with Nutmeg (my cousin Beverly's daughter), who matches Arden in intensity and fierce personality.

at Arden's playdate with Nutmeg

with my cousin Dawn, dressed in red for my grandma's birthday party.

Arden meeting more of her second cousins.

Seeing my grandmother in her ailing condition was very hard. She sleeps for most of the day, and I was told that her awake-ness and awareness during this visit (a few minutes here and there) was rare and very special. Due to distance, culture and language, I've never had a close personal relationship with any of my grandparents - but I do have vivid memories of them from when they were healthy, and it's always very emotional to see a relative in declining health.

My grandmother has lived a long and wonderful life, and I was grateful for the chance to celebrate this with many of my aunts, uncles, cousins and other relatives. And of course, I was grateful that my grandmother was finally able to meet my daughter - her 19th great-grandchild.